Paris, The City of Light, is a magical destination full of unparalleled history and architecture. Enchanting is the adjective that first comes to mind when describing this vastly historied jewel of Europe. Many books have been written detailing every museum and popular destination, but within this blog, I will share some lesser known gems in and around the arrondissements (neighborhoods) of this marvelous city.
My fascination with Paris began years ago after reading the autobiographical A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway. The stories of both literary and artistic figures living and working throughout this city a century ago was absolutely captivating to my imagination. His novel, The Sun Also Rises, only furthered my obsession with the vividly detailed City of Light.
Paris has also graced the silver screen countless times providing a gateway to the renowed architecture and design of Georges-Eugène Haussmann. Most have undoubtedly watched Bogart and Bacall as young lovers in this city, or the hilarious escapades of Clark Griswold and his family, watched the city fold in half in Christopher Nolan’s Inception, if not seen her showcased at her finest in Woody Allen’s Midnight In Paris. One of my all time favorite Parisian films includes the 2011 effort, The Intouchables. This city is truly a feast for the eyes and cinematographers have used the amazing architecture of Haussmann to the fullest countless times.
No visit would be complete without dining al fresco along the Boulevard du Montparnasse, strolling along the banks of the Seine in the late afternoon, climbing the famous hill in Montmartre to Sacré-Cœur or taking in the view of the city from any one of numerous high vantage points for sunset.
Some of the best, lesser known, rooftop locations include: Tour Montparnasse, Perruche atop Printemps Haussmann, the Saint-Jacques Tower or any number of rooftop establishments open to the public for dinner and cocktails. A favorite of ours is Le Perchoir in the 4th arrondissement which overlooks the magnificent rooftop of the Hôtel de Ville. Famous locations such as the Arc de Triomphe will also provide the most dazzling setting for taking in the sunset.
Where to Stay
Our apartment was one block North of the Panthéon along Rue Laplace in the centrally located 5th arrondissement of the city. From this location, walking to many famous locations around the city and along the Seine proved easy and essential to making our stay an enjoyable one.
Should you stay in this arrondissement, one location not to be missed is the phenomenal Saint-Étienne-du-Mont church. Beautifully vaulted ceilings encapsulate stained glass windows and a giant organ along the back of the church. The small staircase outside the North entrance was prominently featured in Midnight In Paris; fitting, considering one of Hemingway’s original apartments was on the upper floor of 74 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine just around the corner.
A stroll down Rue Mouffetard from Place de la Contrescarpe will provide endless options for dining at an array of multi-cultured restaurants with delectable eats.
Transportation
Paris is a city that is easy to navigate both by foot or the Metro. The Metro made it extremely easy to travel between different arrondissements. The key is knowing the name of the station at both ends of each line. Should you need to switch lines to get to your destination, simply look for the signs showing the final destination in the direction you’d like to travel at each connecting station. Upon arriving in Paris, I simply saved a screenshot of the Metro map to my phone and could pull it up discreetly at any time to double check the route. This will aid in the same way a paper map would without drawing attention to yourself and appearing as a tourist.
Gem #1: Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Tucked away in the 19th arrondissement of Paris, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a place of utter tranquility and peace often not found inside such a major metropolitan area. The park is situated high atop a hill with numerous bicycle and walking paths, restaurants, a large pond with an island and suspension bridge, as well as the Temple de la Sybille atop the center of the island offering incredible views up toward Sacré-Cœur in the neighborhood of Montmartre. You’ll often find the park filled with couples and families relaxing in the grass on a sunny afternoon having a picnic. A favorite little gem in this park lies at the Southeast corner of the pond along a gravel path just off the main Route Circulaire du Lac, a small man-made waterfall resting inside a rocky grotto.
Getting There: Buttes Chaumont is the metro station that brings you out along the South border of the park.
Gem #2: Montmartre
This hilltop arrondissement of Paris is a very famous neighborhood that has been the home of choice for a plethora of well-known artists over the past century from Renoir, to Picasso, Modigliani, Vincent van Gogh and countless others. Many of the apartment buildings where they lived still stand along the narrow streets and now adorn plaques recognizing the historical significance.
The Place du Tertre just West of the famous hilltop church, Sacré-Cœur, is still the place to find the largest gathering of local working artists and bohemians. A stroll along Rue Norvins, as well as the parallel Rue Saint-Rustique is a great introduction to this undeniably charming neighborhood. Many small shops and restaurants line the quaint cobblestone streets offering stunning views of Sacré-Cœur. A museum of Salvador Dalí is just around the corner at 11 Rue Poulbot, as well as the Rue du Calvaire stairs, one of the most picturesque staircases in Montmartre.
Finding the hidden gems that lie within Montmartre really depends on what fascinates you. Do you want to see where a famous favorite artist lived or perhaps an incredible viewpoint tucked further away from the main tourist attractions? Maybe you would like to see one of the last remaining hillside vineyards within the city limits of Paris? Whatever your interest, two of our favorite gems within this hilltop neighborhood include the Vines du Clos Montmartre and the adjacent storybook-esque Au Lapin Agile Cabaret building. Both locations sit at the intersection of Rue Saint-Vincent and Rue des Saules.
With so many classic Parisian streets to walk down, it can be difficult knowing which ones might have the best views. One of our favorites is Rue de l’Abreuvoir. It begins with the quaint La Maison Rose, a charming little pink restaurant situated at a prominent point, then continues downhill until Place Dalida, a small square that showcases one of the very best views of the towering Sacré-Cœur.
For photographers, the best images from this location will be taken with a mid-telephoto lens making Sacré-Cœur appear closer to the foreground. (La Maison Rose) A 70-200 was the best option and really helped make the dome of the church appear closer than it actually was. Sacré-Cœur is such an iconic symbol of Montmartre that it is only fitting to include it prominently in most compositions.
Just around the corner from Place Dalida remains one of the last wooden windmills of Montmartre at Rue Lepic and Rue Girardon. Windmills of this type used to cover the hillsides of Montmartre dating back to the 17th century. Currently, only the Moulin de la Galette and neighboring Moulin Blute-Fin remain, the later being on private property inaccessible to the public. Moulin de la Galette was famously painted by Renoir, van Gogh and Lautrec in the late 1800s.
Originally built in 1622, Moulin de la Galette came close to destruction many times throughout numerous wars that were fought during the 19th century. One last time, it was saved from destruction in 1915 and was turned into a monument in 1958. Today it sits atop a bistro bearing the same name. The more famous Moulin Rouge sits just six blocks down the hill along Boulevard de Clichy.
Getting There: Anvers is the metro station best suited for your arrival. Upon climbing the stairs up to street level, a short walk up the Rue de Steinkerque will bring you to the Carrousel de Saint-Pierre at the base of the hill leading up to Sacré-Cœur.
Insider Tip: Sacré-Cœur and the Square Louise-Michel - Be mindful of your personal belongings in this congested tourist area. Should someone attempt to grab your wrist and give you a “friendship bracelet,” simply decline. This is a scam where they are looking for money and will hound you persistently should they hand you anything before you can decline. I had read about this prior to our trip and had to laugh when an individual actually attempted to do this to me. Simply be firm and tell them no. This should not deter one from exploring this incredible area, just be mindful of your surroundings.
Other Gems:
Paris, as one can imagine, has enough little gems to fill a book or possibly even a multiple volume set. I hope the locations and places listed above provide a brief but potent list for these two particular areas within The City of Light. The list of locations I’ve accumulated over the years contains well over one hundred unique and beautiful places within the city limits. Should you have any questions about anything relating to Paris or locations not mentioned above, please ask in the comment section and I will be happy to provide any information possible.
A few other gems I’d highly recommend are the following:
Le Marais - a fantastic area along the right bank consisting of both portions of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. Chez Hanna has some of the best falafel in town! One could easily explore the narrow streets of this neighborhood for an entire afternoon.
Place Dauphine - this hidden gem on the Île de la Cité is a small triangular park situated on the West portion of the island just in from Pont Neuf. This is a quiet and beautiful little area with one of our favorite restaurants in the city for a nice dinner, Restaurant Paul. Multi-storied residences surround this park isolating it from the busy streets outside.
Cour de Rohan - the tiny street of Cour du Commerce Saint-André could be the Diagon Alley of Paris. Just to the side of Un Dimanche à Paris lies a tiny alleyway with a gate. Should the gate be open, a breathtaking set of three little courtyards exist along this alley dating back almost one thousand years. The very last Pas-de-mule (iron mounting block) in Paris exists in the second courtyard, which ladies would use to aid in the mounting of their horses. It appears as a small step atop three wrought iron legs. This superb area is still relatively unknown to the masses.
Square des Peupliers - at the very southern end of the city proper in the 13th arrondissement lies the tiny triangular street of Square des Peupliers. While one may not consider a quaint street a worthwhile endeavor, this beautiful little street almost feels like a secret garden. Visiting during the summer months or fall will surely provide lush gardens and even fall colors. It is a short two-block walk from the Tolbiac metro station.
Rue Crémieux - This tiny little street has exploded in popularity due to the brightly colored row of buildings that adorn each side of the street. This is a great backdrop for pictures together with friends and family in such a colorful setting. Bring along a vibrant yellow or red umbrella and it is bound to be a fun time snapping those memorable images! Visiting early in the morning just as the sun breaks would be my recommendation for this area before the crowds arrive.